Oh my goodness, it’s finally done!! The bloomer drafting tutorial I’ve been promising forever? It’s here. Check out the video below for instructions on how to draft the Coquette Bloomers to your size, or find it on the Moth and Rust DIY YouTube channel.
To Find Bloomer Measurements:
You’ll need your hip measurement (H) at the fullest part, and the distance (L) from the waistband to the floor. You’ll also need your measurement at the waistband, but this won’t be used until determining the length of your elastic or drawstring.
A: (H) x 0.57 = _________
B: A + 4” to 6” = _________
C (front seam): (L) x 0.28 = _________
D (back seam): (L) x 0.32 = _________
Leg ruffle length: bottom of leg seam x 2.5 = _________
Hip ruffle length: ruffle line on one side x 5 = _________
Waistband casing length: A x 2 = _________
Waistband casing width: depends on width of elastic or drawstring. One method to find this is: (drawstring/elastic width + 0.5”) x 2 = _________
With the instructions provided, you should be able to create a pattern in any size, but just for comparison, here is a visual reference of the leg piece from several of the standard sizes I offer in my shop:
A few notes:
You can use newsprint, tissue paper, freezer paper, or even extra fabric to create a pattern for this. I would recommend testing your pattern on some inexpensive fabric before trying something more precious, and adjust as needed! You can experiment with the length and width of the ruffle pieces, or even the number of ruffles on the hips. Or, size the leg down or up to suit your taste. The seam allowance I use is about 1/4″ to 3/8″ because I use a serger, so if you use the more traditional 5/8″ seam allowance or something else, please be sure to figure this into your final measurements. If you have any questions about this, let me know!!
Order of construction:
- After cutting out pieces, draw hip lines as shown in video.
- Leg ruffles should be sewn into rectangle for now; hip ruffles should be sewn into a continuous loop. You can finish the hip ruffles at this time with a narrow hem, but do not hem the leg ruffles yet.
- Attach leg ruffles to leg openings, basting to gather if desired.
- With right sides facing, pin bloomer sides together, and stitch front and back seams.
- Line up crotch inseam and stitch.
- Leg ruffles can be hemmed now!
- Gather hips ruffles and sew along hip lines, as shown in video.
- Attach waistband casing, and add elastic or drawstring.
I go over everything in the video, but am also providing a worksheet for you to print out here:
