Knitting is one of the most enjoyable, satisfying endeavors I know of: it’s relaxing, therapeutic, stimulates the brain, and just happens to be so practical…
There are tons of studies out there touting the benefits of knitting, but where do you actually begin? If you’re thinking about picking up the craft but have no idea where to start, read on!
Sticks and String
Really, you only must have two key things in order to begin knitting: sticks (needles) and and string (yarn). You might want a pattern, too, but not necessarily–I’ll talk about that further on!
There are other notions that can prove helpful as well, such as a tapestry needle, scissors, and a stitch/needle gauge. (Shown below)
As with any hobby, you could absolutely spend a ton on knitting. But one of the great things about it is that it doesn’t require a big investment. You can start out with a $5 set of needles and a $4 skein of yarn. And really, that’s all I recommend you begin with, until you’re comfortable.
Beginner Projects
The best beginner projects are things like scarves and wash cloths, or any rectangular item, because these are things that can be created by repeating the same stitch over and over. You can choose more complicated projects, but it’s okay to start simple and get comfortable with holding your needles, without having to think too much about changing your stitch pattern.
The scarf pictured below consists of only two stitches: knit and purl, the most basic of knitting building blocks.
Needles
Needles come in a range of sizes, and the size you use is determined by your yarn size and what you want your gauge to be. Gauge is the number of stitches and rows that fit within a given area. For example, if I use a worsted/medium weight yarn on size US 7 needles, I would probably come out with a four inch swatch that was 16 stitches wide and 22 rows tall.
But my advice is to not fret too much about gauge as you’re getting the feel of knitting, especially if you’re creating a non-fitting item like a scarf or washcloth.
In addition to needle diameter, you’ll need to pay attention to the length and shape of your needle–that is, is it a straight, circular, or double-pointed needle? Each one has a purpose…
Straight Needles
Straight needles have a pointed part at one end, and a cap or nub at the other to keep yarn from slipping off. They can be used for any project knit flat–that is, not in the round, or not knit in a tube shape. Scarves, shawls, blankets, pieces for sweaters, etc., can be made on straight needles. They come in different lengths to accommodate differently sized projects.
Double Pointed Needles
Double pointed needles are generally shorter than straight needles and have a point at both ends. They’re made for knitting smaller items in the round, or in a tubular fashion, like hats, socks, mittens, and so on…
Circular Needles
Circular needles (not shown here) consist of two needles connected with a flexible cord or cable at the center. They’re for using to make larger items that are knit in the round, like cowls or seamless sweaters. However, you can also use circular needles to knit flat items; simply knit back and forth instead of in a circular direction.
Yarn
Perhaps the most thrilling–or most overwhelming?–part of knitting is the yarn–there are sooo many to choose from right now! But not every yarn is good for every project. There are a number of things to consider when choosing a yarn, but the two major factors are weight and fiber:
Weight
The weight of the yarn is basically the size; this ranges from lace weight, or thread-like yarns, to extra bulky novelty yarns, which can be as big as your wrist! (Think of those super-chunky blankets that were trending on Pinterest not too long ago…) Most of the time, you’ll probably find yourself using something in between those extremes.
Yarn weight is measured by wraps per inch (wpi), or how many times yarn wrapped around something like a needle can fit into an inch’s length.
Below is a chart of standard yarn weights, accompanied by the type of projects you’d typically use for these yarns. When buying any commercial yarn, the number you see at the left should be on the label, telling you which category it falls into. There are no absolute rules, but the potential uses listed should give you an idea of the type of weight you’d need for a particular project.
| Category Number | Types of Yarn | Potential Uses |
| Lace (0) | Crochet thread | lace, doilies, fine shawls |
| Super Fine (1) | Sock, baby, fingering | Shawls, lace, socks, doilies |
| Fine (2) | Sport, baby | Socks, mittens, shawls, fine sweaters |
| Light (3) | DK, sport | Scarves, socks, mittens, shawls, hats |
| Medium (4) | Worsted, Aran, Afghan | Sweaters, mittens, hats, scarves, wash cloths |
| Bulky (5) | Chunky, craft, rug | Hats, sweaters, house slippers, statement pieces, housewares |
| Super bulky (6) | Super chunky, roving, | Novelty items, chunky blankets, rugs |
| Jumbo (7) | Jumbo, roving | Novelty items, chunky blankets |
Fiber Content
Another crucial thing to consider–what is your yarn actually made of? Is it natural, synthetic, or a blend? Will it shrink or melt (depending on your application)? Let’s look at a few fiber properties…
Natural Fibers
Natural fibers can be cellulose (which come from plants like cotton or bamboo) or protein (something that comes from an animal, like wool or silk). Generally speaking, I’m always in favor of natural fibers if possible–they’re usually more sustainable, biodegradable, and just all-around better for you and the environment. However, there can be drawbacks with some natural fibers, like being less durable or have a tendency to shrink. These are some more commonly used natural fibers:
- Wool: this one sometimes gets a bum rap, but wool is truly a wonder fiber! It has incredible wicking properties, is insulating, can be cool in the summer, and it does not have to be scratchy! Wool from certain types of sheep, like Merino, are incredibly soft. Wool can “felt” or “full”, though, meaning it will shrink/get denser in the wash. There are specially treated wools (usually called superwash) that can be washed and dried; just be sure to pay attention to care instructions and you should be alright. Wool is great for hats, scarves, sweaters, socks, shawls…just about any garment! It’s great for housewares like coasters and hot pads, too.
- Cotton: cotton is ideal for cooler summer clothing, and things like washcloths and towels or rugs.
- Linen: another great summer wear fiber is linen. It’s also amazing for shawls and other lace items where you would want very defined stitches. Linen is incredibly durable and absorbent as well, and is often used to make towels or wash clothes.
- Silk: this is a bit of a luxury fiber, and can tend to be expensive, but is great for smaller projects or very special items.
Synthetic Fibers
Synthetic or man-made fibers are mostly derived from petroleum, which means they are essentially plastic. There are recycled versions available, but even this process can have questionable effects. Microplastic pollution is also becoming a big problem. Generally speaking, I prefer to avoid synthetics, but they do have their place…
- Acrylic: this is probably one of the more popular yarn fibers that I see. It’s usually very easy to care for, making it ideal for projects that might need to be washed frequently, like baby items. It’s also usually hypoallergenic. It also won’t fall prey to clothes moths, and is usually inexpensive.
- Polyester: similar to acrylic, polyester is easy to wash, inexpensive, and resistant to moths. Also, like acrylic, it is a plastic, which means it could melt (do not use for potholders or anything that goes in the microwave!) and micorplastic pollution can be a concern.
- Nylon: unlike polyester or acrylic, nylon is more stain resistant. It’s also very durable, and is often blended with wool to create stronger sock yarn. It’s also easy to wash and has a silky texture.
Blends
Natural fibers blended with synthetic can be a great option, offering the best of both worlds. As mentioned above, small quantities of nylon are often blended with wool to create more durable yarn that’s easier to care for. Likewise, you might find an acrylic yarn with added wool to create a cozier feel.
Patterns
When you’re just starting out and wanting to get a feel for knitting, I would recommend grabbing a simple pair of size 8 needles, an inexpensive ball of Peaches & Creme cotton, casting on about 40 stitches and going to town on a washcloth (or, if those aren’t your thing, swap the cotton for a skein of washable Wool Ease and make a scarf).
But once you get somewhat comfortable with the basics, you may find yourself in need of a pattern.
Your pattern should tell you what type of yarn and needles are used for the project. It might be very specific, stating the exact brand and color, or it may just suggest the type of yarn and needles you should use . Either way, this should guide you in choosing your supplies.
Patterns are usually written out or come in the form of a chart, or sometimes both.
You can find knitting patterns in books, online, or at your local yarn shop.
Ravelry is a database for knitting and crochet patterns, and you can find many, many different types of patterns, both for sale and free, on that site.
Etsy is also home to many patterns for sale by independent designers.
If you Google “free knitting patterns,” or search Pinterest, you should find lots to choose from.
In addition to the patterns I sell on Etsy, I have a few available as free pdf downloads here on the blog!
Common Challenges
I’ve found that the most common issue beginning knitters have is keeping their tension even. Most end up with stitches that are way too tight, due in part to the fear that they’re going to drop their work or stitches will slide off. If you find yourself doing this, don’t be discouraged! Just try to be conscious of it, and work toward allowing your stitches to loosen up.
Occasionally, though, stitches do get dropped–if this happens, don’t panic! It can be be easily fixed by simply pulling the yarn back through the loop that it dropped out of, with a crochet hook or with your fingers and a knitting needle.
Accidentally wrapping your yarn around your needle, creating an unintentional yarn over and thereby increasing your number of stitches, is also a common mistake. If you do this, only to realize it on the row coming back, all you have to do to fix this is simply not knit that extra stitch. Just let it drop from the needle once you come to it, and continue as your normally would. This will mean there’s a little extra slack in the yarn, but it will even itself out after wear and washing.
If you’re laughing to yourself and wondering, “is knitting really that relaxing?!”…just give it some time. The more you practice, the more comfortable it will become, and you’ll realize why so many people have fallen in love with this ancient craft.
When you’re just starting out, don’t try to worry too much about gauge, fiber, etc…just enjoy the process and you’ll eventually pick up everything else!
